Restaurant Tapio in Ruka village has become the northernmost Michelin-starred restaurant in the world. Now, the refined flavors and rich textures of game, wild fish, herbs, berries, and mushrooms are making waves internationally.
Kuusamo's wild food hits the heart of all culinary trends
The ingredients growing in the nearby wilderness have always been at the heart of Kuusamo’s food culture.
While the northern fields pose challenges for organic farming – highly valued by international tourists – Kuusamo’s wild food more than makes up for it. Wild food hits the core of every food trend. It is locally sourced, pure, flavorful, and healthy superfood with a near-zero carbon footprint. Cultivation requires no additional water or energy.
Best of all, the bright summer nights and harsh polar winters make northern wild plants even more aromatic and nutrient-rich compared to their southern cousins. The Ruka-Kuusamo area is also known for having some of the world’s cleanest air.
Jarmo Pitkänen, a restaurateur and ceramicist who honed his craft abroad, has been steering Studio Restaurant Tundra in Kuusamo for 20 years, witnessing the area’s development. Although the elements for internationally appealing culinary tourism have always existed, they were previously overshadowed by nature-based activities.
– Great gastronomy requires clarity and honesty. In Kuusamo, this can be as simple as smoked fish, potatoes, and a sauce, Pitkänen says.
– Nowadays, people understand how integral food is to travel. Once accommodations are booked, the next thought is, ‘What’s for dinner?’ Preferably something local and traditional, Pitkänen says.
Midnight fishing and lakeside fish by the campfire
While Lappish and Scandinavian food cultures are impressive, Ruka-Kuusamo stands out for its exceptional fish selection. Kuusamo is famous for its crystal-clear, fish-rich waters. Fishing remains a livelihood here, with nearly 30 full-time fishermen in the area.
– In Kuusamo’s restaurants, fishermen who supply the day’s catch are known by name, along with the time and place of their haul, says Pitkänen.
– The quality awareness of local customers keeps us on our toes. They always know what fish was caught, where, and how big it was, says Pitkänen, himself the son of a part-time fisherman.
In addition to vendace and salmon, pike is a prized catch in Kuusamo. It’s enjoyed not only in traditional fishcakes but also as warm-smoked roe and cold-smoked tartare.
Pitkänen also works on product development using local fish. Among the most exciting innovations, he highlights ruffe and fish livers. Yet, for an unforgettable gourmet experience, even a culinary connoisseur must venture beyond the restaurant.
– The best gourmet food tourism experience is fishing with a net during the midnight sun and eating the freshly caught fish. In between, you can take a break on an island to cook lakeside fish over an open fire. A slice of rye bread on the side is all you need, Pitkänen enthuses.
In winter, lakeside fish is enjoyed in ice-fishing overalls under the glow of the northern lights.
– For tourists, it’s a unique experience, but ice fishing also benefits Kuusamo’s fish populations and waterways, Pitkänen points out.
The wild food capital
Kuusamo’s food culture is rooted in the legacy of local homesteaders. The area has always been a hotspot for berry-picking, hunting, and fishing. Dairy farming still exists, with bread cheese being one of its most famous delicacies.
While the old barter economy has faded, the spirit of cooperation lives on through the ‘Wild Food Kuusamo’ wild food brand. Today, the culinary traditions passed down from local homemakers are carried forward by Kuusamo’s modern chefs, many of whom have honed their skills abroad.
– I’ve worked with various concepts around the world using classic ingredients like caviar and foie gras. I still rely heavily on French cuisine, but I now have a deeper appreciation for our local delicacies, Pitkänen says.
The wild food boom that began in Finland about a decade ago continues to thrive, especially among chefs passionate about wild herbs. However, the concept of wild food sometimes needs explaining to international visitors.
– They love the stories that come with wild food, from edible Christmas trees (spruce shoots) to the aromatic use of tar. These stories reinforce a positive image of Finland, even if gathering ingredients from the backyard might sound quirky. We’re a nation that lives in and from the forest, says Pitkänen, who also runs cooking courses.
Pitkänen draws inspiration for his food presentation from the surrounding nature, Kuusamo’s majestic hills, and rushing rapids. Tundra’s upstairs ceramic studio is open for guests to explore during dinner.
– This past summer, I crafted a few new ceramics pieces to complement next season’s settings. Thoughtful ceramics make the experience more holistic, Pitkänen notes.
The most magical food tourism season: harvest time
While Ruka-Kuusamo’s food culture thrives in all seasons, winter is its busiest. However, Pitkänen believes one of the most magical times of the year often goes unnoticed by food travelers – harvest season!
– That’s when everything is fresh. You can pick angelica, lingonberries, and potatoes from your backyard, fish from traps, and cranberries from the bog. Autumn also marks the start of the vendace roe and game seasons, Pitkänen says.
He hopes that in the future, more food tourists will discover Kuusamo’s harvest festivals, wild food celebrations, southern Kuusamo’s Venetian-style feasts, and the Talonpöytä Fest.
– As the winter season kicks off in early October, I encourage tourists to visit not only Michelin-starred restaurants but also the area’s countryside dining spots. The countryside is full of hidden gems, especially for city folk. As souvenirs, I recommend smoked vendace preserves, dried wild herbs, and berry powders from Kuusamo, Pitkänen suggests.
Delicious wild food and a taste of history
Restaurant Rukan Kuksa serves high-quality local wild food delicacies in the village of Ruka. Tempted by the chef’s tasting menu? Try sugar-salted Kuusamo whitefish, reindeer sirloin with dark game sauce, and spruce shoot crème brûlée for dessert.
rukankuksa.fi
Pohjolan Pirtti, a private event restaurant, offers a historic setting for wild food experiences with your group. Located about a 30-minute drive from Ruka and Kuusamo’s center, Vuotunki is one of Kuusamo’s oldest Finnish settlements. The log-walled main building was completed in 1891 and has survived wars and evacuations.Isokenkäisten Klubi takes you on a culinary journey into authentic, traditional Kuusamo food. Potatoes come from the restaurant’s garden, berries from the nearby forest, fish from local lakes, and bread cheese from a nearby farm. Recipes handed down through generations have been thoughtfully adapted for today’s tastes.
Read more: Ruka-Kuusamo wild food
Text: Pauliina Toivanen
Photos: Jarmo Pitkänen/Studioravintola Tundra, Johanna Elomaa and Ruka-Kuusamo Tourist Association